Squirrel Proofing Your Roof

My family has been building/remodeling homes in the Atlanta area since 1954. We do get this problem on the occasion... squirrels in the attic and no visible sign of entry.

There is a variable intersection of two planes...the fascia and the roofing. Ideally, the fascia (the vertical mounted board at the end of the rafters... the finish/painted board that the gutters are attached)will butt the edge of the roof decking (plywood on top of the rafters) which will allow the roofing all the way down to the trailing edge of the roof and then over the edge of the fascia and into the gutters.

The problem areas to look for are normally the corners (the hips and valleys) that occasionally run out of plane to the roof decking and create a sizeable gap. The rest of the straight runs are rafter variables during framing which allows for the rafter to run up or down as they acclimate and open up a gap as the boards bend.

For these straight runs, should you find a gap where you can see the rafters or directly into the eaves.... you might try any number of gutter screens that attach to the gutters. By closing the tunnel of the gutter on top, the squirrel doesn't have any room to climb through a fascia gap. Be sure to get the extra clips that will hold both sides of the gutter screens/guards to the top edges of the gutters.... I've seen some pretty enterprising squirrels pop the screens off to continue their occupation of the attics.

With the exception of the larger squirrels that have been working out daily... they lack the upper body strength to bend back and upwards the dual layers of shingles at the trailing edge. However... for the most psychopathic critter... stuff that gap beneath the shingles with building cloth along with the gutter screen and they'll try to find another route.

There is a starter edge flashing that is already pre-bent that is used to slide under the bottom course of shingles for about 3 inches... well before the nailing starts...and can hang into the gutters. This is what we use for cedar shake homes... along with a trap to discourage any squirrel squatters.

The material... in layman terms... is a Drip Edge; most specifically used for roofing applications. Keep in mind the longer the bottom flashing, you'll have problems dealing with the gutters and gutter spikes/ferules.

I rarely recommend roof edge work off of ladders... a) it's bad on my feet, b) long runs of gutter and roof will exceed your arm length. For work like this... if you plan to Do It Yourself.... either scaffold jacks to set up and bridge across with planking; or two extension ladders with scaffold plank arms (you set

Drip edge moulding to keep squirrels out

up the ladders; set the plank arms to be near level; install the planks and voila... scaffolding). Fall protection devices are ALWAYS encouraged.

You'll need to be able to lift up a section of roofing at a time to be able to install the "Drip Edge"... so it's possible that you'll need two more hands... if this is the case, rent the scaffold jacks and aluminum planks. You can rent three sets with cross bracing and give you a longer run at a time. As well, with cross braced scaffolds you can attach a fall lanyard.

Since there won't be a lot of swinging room, use a screw gun with a flush head; they won't be very long just to set through the thin metal. Use a magnetic driver so you can keep one hand holding or supporting something.

If you have an extra large gap between the fascia and roof decking, you can get the wider "drip edge" materials and use metal snips to cut out a slot to slip around the gutter spike & ferules. However.... be advised, it will be a pain in tight quarters.

We no longer install tall specimen plantings along the foundations that grow within jumping distance to the roof/eaves line.... and are easily maintained and managed by the homeowner with pruning clippers... rather than a tree saw.

Thanks, Dan!